The Park of Villa Demidoff at Pratolino, Tuscany

Just fifteen minutes from Florence going north on the “Bolognese” road through some woods is the little town of Pratolino, (the name derives  from the word “prato” which means  field in Italian).Villa Demidoff of Pratolino is a well-known park where Florentine families  take day trips to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city to enjoy the cool weather of the Tuscan hills just north of Florence.

The name Demidoff derives from the wealthy Russian family who bought the Medici Villa  in 1872 and restored the “Paggeria” for living quarters, and then the other buildings, all , of course, in a grandiose style with the intent to impress guests in their vast garden embellished with elegant statues.

In 1580 The Villa Medici of Pratolino had a garden with an elaborate network of fountains fed from springs of the nearby  mountains – using an intricate  system of cisterns and pipes. There were numerous  artificial grottoes and moving statues, and mechanical figures activated by water, sometimes accompanied with music (water organs).

This park of wonders, which today we can only create with our  imagination, bears the imprint of three personalities: the second Grand Duke of Tuscany, Francesco De’ Medici, the court architect Bernardo Buontalenti and the sculptor known as Giambologna.Thanks to the skills of all the creators, there is a sophisticated play of allusions and symbolism  combining elements of the classical world , philosophy and mythology.

At the center of this world of wonder and excitement, is water, the energy and dispenser of life and fertility.There wa a vertical movement starting from the top with the figure of  Zeus, the god of the rains (now at the Boboli Gardens and here replaced with a copy)below the statue of the Appennine – still standing although a bit transformed, below a  spring, then further below  was the Villa (the symbolic power of the Duke  Francesco over the citizens of  Florence) and finally at  the end was a fountain with statues of a laundress and a child.

At the “Firenze Com’Era” museum one can see the late sixteenth century Lunette painting by the Duch painter Giusto D’Utens of the Villa and Park.We can clearly see the differences from the Medici period to today:on the left side of the villa are the Farm , the Stables, and the Chapel which  still  exist today. Missing is the  the Grotto of the female bear symbolizing maternal love, and the  many ponds or “Gamberaie” ( from the Italian word for prawn).  the Grotto of Cupid still exists but without its  springs.

In the painting on the right side of the painting we see the Paggeria,  which still survives. Missing is  the Great Aviary, now a pool, and  the fountain of  Juno with peacocks  and statues representing  the two rivers Arno and Arbia – now dismantled in the courtyard of the Bargello Museum. We also  see in the painting  the Big Oak tree with platforms to look at the stars, the mountain “Parnasus” with   the statue of Pegasus, now at Boboli, but was once located  at the top of the mountain.

Below the villa and down hill from the  fountain of the laundress were  two low walls whose   springs would emit   powerful sprays  of water creating  a  tunnel underneath where  it  was possible  to walk without  getting wet; the effects of the refracted sunlight on the water would create  a beautiful continuous rainbow!

At the very end of this fantastic world, as I’ve already mentioned, was the fountain with the statue of the laundress with a cherub  who was trying  to figure out what he was doing inside the fountain!

Villa Demidoff  today has an original English style  garden which  dates back to the ”Biedermayer” period, created by  Bohemian Josef Fricks in the early 1800’s  for the Hapsburg-Lorraine dynasty, the dukes who succeeded the Medici dynasty which died out in 1737.

 
“The walk was everything we hoped for and more! Our guide did a wonderful job and clearly had done a lot of thinking about what would be useful for us. She gave us many suggestions of places to eat and shop - all of which turned out to be great. Her enthusiasm for the history of Florence was contagious. We can’t say enough good things about the guide or the walk.
Thank you!”

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